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Veiled Chameleon Supplies List: The Gear That Matters, Item by Item

Every veiled chameleon supply with US and UK picks: screen cage, T5 UVB, basking bulbs and dimming thermostat, misting system, dripper, plants and supplements.

11 min read 7 sources

Four purchases decide most of a veiled chameleon’s health: a tall screen enclosure, a T5 UVB light, basking bulbs on a dimming thermostat, and a reliable way to mist. Put your budget there first. Plants, drippers and supplements cost less and are easy to adjust later.

Below is every item, grouped by job, with what to look for and a pick for US and UK keepers. Some brands sell in only one market, so some picks show only in one. Picks are based on the care guidance cited at the bottom of this page and on the makers’ own listings; we have not tested them ourselves.

1. Enclosure

What to look for:

  • Height first. At least 24 x 24 x 48 inches tall (60 x 60 x 120 cm) for one adult, the minimum given by the Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic (LIBEVC) and ReptiFiles. LIBEVC prefers 36 x 30 x 48 inches (91 x 76 x 122 cm) for large males.
  • Screen or hybrid. LIBEVC recommends screen or hybrid (screen with some solid panels) and advises against fully enclosed glass. The RVC says mesh sides give the ventilation these lizards need.
  • A top that carries lamps. The UVB tube, daylight lamp and basking dome all sit on the screen.
  • Drainage. A tray or bucket underneath, because water goes in every day.

Dry home? ReptiFiles notes that in a dry climate a hybrid, glass or PVC enclosure may hold humidity better. You can also cover some screen sides with panels.

Best screen enclosure (US and UK)

Zoo Med ReptiBreeze Open Air Screen Cage, XL (24 x 24 x 48 in)

A tall aluminum screen cage at exactly the minimum size the Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic and ReptiFiles give for one adult veiled chameleon. Screen sides give the airflow chameleons need, and the height suits a lizard that lives in the branches.

Size
24 x 24 x 48 in (61 x 61 x 122 cm)
Material
Black anodized aluminum screen
Doors
Large front door, plus a bottom door for cleaning
Model
NT-13 (per Zoo Med)
Assembly
Hardware included, screwdriver only

Best for

One adult veiled chameleon, in either market, set on a stand with a drainage tray below.

Worth knowing

Screen lets humidity escape fast in a dry home; ReptiFiles and the clinic suggest covering some sides with clear or opaque panels if needed. Large males may need more room. The bottom tray is sold separately.

More on sizes and layout: Enclosure size.

2. UVB lighting

This is not the place to save. Veiled chameleons sit in Ferguson zone 3, the partial or open-sun baskers, according to the Reptile Centre’s zone list. Without UVB, a chameleon cannot use calcium and develops metabolic bone disease.

What to look for:

  • A linear T5 HO tube, about 22 inches long, in 5% or 6% strength. LIBEVC and ReptiFiles both name the Arcadia T5 HO 6% and the Zoo Med ReptiSun T5 HO 5.0. VCA suggests a stronger 10.0 bulb for large cages or heavily planted setups.
  • A reflector, which pushes more UVB down toward the basking branch.
  • No coil bulbs. They light a small patch, not the whole animal.

Target: a UV index of 2.5 to 3.0 at the basking spot (LIBEVC) or about 3.0 (ReptiFiles). Screen mesh blocks 30 to 50% of UVB, according to LIBEVC, so the branch sits closer when the lamp is over mesh.

Best UVB kit

Arcadia ProT5 UVB Kit, Forest 6%, 24W

A complete high-output T5 UVB kit with the 6% Forest lamp, a reflector and a linkable controller. The Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic and ReptiFiles both name a 22 inch Arcadia T5 HO 6% as a suitable UVB lamp for a veiled chameleon.

Lamp
T5 HO, 6% UVB (Forest)
Wattage
24W
Fitting length
About 22.5 in (570 mm)
In the box
Controller, lamp, reflector, link cable
Mounting
Inside the enclosure or over mesh

Best for

Lying across the top of a 24 x 24 x 48 in screen cage, over the basking branch.

Worth knowing

Screen mesh cuts UVB (the clinic says by 30 to 50%), so the branch height matters more than the box. Aim for a UV index of about 2.5 to 3.0 at the chameleon, checked with a meter, and keep lower branches for shade.

Worth adding: a Solarmeter 6.5 UV index meter. Both ReptiFiles and LIBEVC use one to set the branch height. It turns a guess into a number.

UV index meter

Solarmeter 6.5R Reptile UV Index Meter

A handheld meter that reads the UV index (UVI) your chameleon actually gets at the basking branch. ReptiFiles and the Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic both use a Solarmeter 6.5 to set the branch height.

Measures
UV index, 280 to 400 nm (per listing)
Range
0 to 199.9 UVI
Model
6.5R

Best for

Setting the basking branch height under screen mesh, and checking that an older UVB tube still puts out enough.

Worth knowing

It is the most expensive item on the list that the chameleon never sees. If you skip it, follow the lamp maker's distance chart and allow for the mesh.

3. Basking heat

What to look for:

  • Two 50W white basking bulbs, side by side. ReptiFiles and LIBEVC both describe this setup, so the warm patch covers the whole chameleon.
  • A dual dome with ceramic sockets, resting on the screen top, never inside the cage.
  • A modest target. Sources give a basking range of about 85 to 95°F (29 to 35°C). Chameleons need far less heat than bearded dragons.

Basking bulb (US)

Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot Lamp, 50W

A white 50W basking bulb. ReptiFiles and the Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic both suggest two 50W white heat bulbs side by side for a veiled chameleon, rather than one stronger bulb.

Type
White basking spot bulb
Wattage
50W

Best for

US keepers building the basking spot in a screen cage, two bulbs in a dual dome.

Worth knowing

A chameleon may sit under heat until it burns, so check the branch top with a temperature gun and run the bulbs on a dimming thermostat. Never use colored or red bulbs.

View on Amazon Affiliate link

Basking bulbs (UK)

LUCKY HERP Reptile Basking Bulb, 50W (2 pack, E27)

A two-pack of 50W basking bulbs with an E27 screw fitting, which matches the two-bulb, 50W setup ReptiFiles and the Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic describe.

Wattage
50W
Pack
2 bulbs
Fitting
E27 screw
Rated life
Up to 2,000 hours (per listing)

Best for

UK keepers who want both basking bulbs in one box.

Worth knowing

Run them through a dimming thermostat and check the branch top with a temperature gun. If the spot runs hot, raise the bulbs, lower the thermostat or drop a wattage.

View on Amazon UK Affiliate link

Dual basking dome

Zoo Med Combo Mini Deep Dome Lamp Fixture (2 x 5.5 in)

Two 5.5 inch deep domes on one fixture, each with its own switch. It holds both 50W basking bulbs side by side on top of a screen cage, so the warm patch covers the whole chameleon.

Domes
Two 5.5 in (14 cm) deep domes
Sockets
Ceramic, up to 100W each (per Zoo Med)
Switches
One per dome

Best for

The two-bulb basking spot, in either market.

Worth knowing

Zoo Med rates each socket for up to 100W. Rest it flat on the screen, never inside where a chameleon can climb onto it.

4. Dimming thermostat

LIBEVC warns that veiled chameleons may not move away from overheating, which risks burns. A thermostat is what stops a warm afternoon from cooking the basking branch.

What to look for:

  • Dimming type for light-emitting bulbs. It turns the bulbs down instead of switching them on and off.
  • Enough load for both bulbs.
  • The probe at the basking branch, out of the chameleon’s reach.

ReptiFiles also mentions a simple plug-in lamp dimmer to turn heat down. A thermostat does the same job automatically, which is safer.

Dimming thermostat (US)

Reptile dimming thermostat for heat lamps

Not one product but the type to shop for: a dimming (proportional) thermostat with a probe. It turns the basking bulbs down instead of switching them on and off, which holds the branch at your set temperature while the light stays steady.

Type
Dimming (proportional) thermostat
Probe
At the basking branch
Load
At least 100W for two 50W bulbs

Best for

US keepers running white basking bulbs over a screen cage.

Worth knowing

Check the maximum load covers both bulbs, and put the probe at the basking branch, out of the chameleon's reach. A plain on/off thermostat makes basking bulbs flicker on and off.

View on Amazon Affiliate link

Dimming thermostat (UK)

Habistat Dimming Thermostat, 600W

A UK-made dimming thermostat designed for heat bulbs. It turns the power up or down to hold your set temperature rather than switching the bulb fully on and off.

Type
Dimming thermostat
Max load
600W
Min load
40W

Best for

UK setups running two 50W basking bulbs.

Worth knowing

It needs a minimum load of 40W, which two 50W bulbs easily meet.

View on Amazon UK Affiliate link

5. Misting system

Chameleons drink droplets from leaves, not from bowls. PetMD and LIBEVC both say so. That means misting every day for the animal’s whole life, which is the biggest daily job in chameleon care.

What to look for:

  • A timer, so misting happens at the same times whether you are home or not. LIBEVC asks for misting at least twice a day, morning and evening, and suggests doing it when the lights are off.
  • Fine nozzles that wet the leaves without flooding the floor.
  • An easy-to-clean reservoir. LIBEVC says to clean mist and fog systems regularly to prevent mold and bacteria.

Both ReptiFiles and LIBEVC name the MistKing Starter system.

Best automatic misting system

MistKing Starter Misting System

A pump, timer and nozzle kit that mists the cage on a schedule. ReptiFiles and the Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic both name the MistKing Starter as the automatic option for the misting a veiled chameleon needs to drink.

In the kit (US 5th Gen)
24V pump, timer, one nozzle assembly, 15 ft of tubing, reservoir filter
Nozzles
Expandable to 10 (US 5th Gen listing)
UK listing
Version 4.0

Best for

Keepers who work long hours or travel, and anyone who wants misting to happen on time every day.

Worth knowing

Plan where the water goes: a screen cage needs a drainage tray or bucket below. Clean the reservoir and nozzles regularly, as the clinic advises, to stop mold and bacteria.

On a budget? A pump-up pressure sprayer is the hand-misting option LIBEVC lists. It is also a good backup when the automatic system needs cleaning.

Hand sprayer

Hand pump pressure sprayer (about 1.5 to 2 liters)

A garden-style pressure sprayer you pump up once and then spray for minutes. The Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic lists a pump-style pressure sprayer as one way to mist; it is much easier on the hand than a trigger bottle.

Type
Pump-up pressure sprayer
Use
Misting leaves and branches

Best for

Twice-daily hand misting, and as a backup if an automatic system fails.

Worth knowing

Use it only for the chameleon, never for garden chemicals, and rinse it out regularly.

6. Dripper

A dripper gives slow, steady droplets that catch the chameleon’s eye. ReptiFiles suggests one in the mid-afternoon, between misting sessions, and LIBEVC names Zoo Med’s Big Dripper as an example.

What to look for: an adjustable valve, enough capacity for a day, and a drip line that lands on a leaf above the drainage area.

Dripper

Zoo Med The Big Dripper (1 gallon)

A one-gallon water container with an adjustable drip valve that hangs over the cage. Water drips onto the leaves below, where a chameleon can find and drink it. The Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic names it as a drip-system example.

Capacity
1 gallon (per Zoo Med)
Mounting
Hangs above the enclosure on a folding handle

Best for

A slow afternoon drip between misting sessions, as ReptiFiles suggests.

Worth knowing

Set the drip over a plant, not the floor, and catch the runoff. Clean it often.

7. Live plants and branches

What to look for:

  • Nontoxic, pesticide-free live plants. LIBEVC suggests pothos on the walls with umbrella plant (schefflera) and ficus at the base. ReptiFiles lists coleus, croton, hibiscus, lipstick plant, money tree, pothos, umbrella plant, wandering Jew, weeping fig and ZZ plant as nontoxic choices. PetMD adds dracaena.
  • Buy from a garden center, rinse the leaves, and replace the potting soil if it contains fertilizer pellets or additives.
  • Branches and vines, mostly horizontal, at different heights. LIBEVC says the chameleon’s toes should wrap about halfway around.

Live plants hold the misting water the chameleon drinks. PetMD says silk plants cannot absorb water, so skip them as the main cover.

8. Monitoring

What to look for:

  • An infrared temperature gun for the top of the basking branch.
  • A thermometer and hygrometer with probes. ReptiFiles and LIBEVC measure humidity in the middle of the enclosure. Their targets are about 40 to 50% by day and 80 to 100% at night; other sources differ (see the lighting and heating guide).

Temperature gun

Etekcity Infrared Thermometer

A handheld infrared gun that reads surface temperature without touching anything. The Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic suggests a probe thermometer or temperature gun to check the basking spot.

Measures
Surface temperature, no contact
Units
°F and °C

Best for

Checking the top of the basking branch, where the chameleon actually sits.

Worth knowing

It reads surfaces, not air. Pair it with a probe thermometer for air temperature and overnight lows.

Thermometer and hygrometer

Digital reptile thermometer and hygrometer with remote probes

A digital gauge with remote probes, so you can read temperature and humidity in the middle of the cage, where ReptiFiles and the Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic say to measure humidity.

Measures
Temperature and humidity
Probes
Two external probes (US listing)

Best for

Tracking the daytime humidity dip and the night-time rise, plus ambient temperature.

Worth knowing

Cheap hygrometers drift. If a reading looks wrong, compare it with a second gauge before changing your misting.

9. Daylight lamp

LIBEVC and ReptiFiles both recommend a bright 6500K daylight lamp alongside the UVB tube, on the same 12-hour timer. It makes the enclosure brighter and keeps live plants growing.

Daylight LED

Arcadia Jungle Dawn LED Bar, 22.5 in

A bright full-spectrum LED bar that sits beside the UVB lamp. The Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic names it as one option for the 6500K daylight it recommends, and the extra light also helps live plants grow.

Type
Full-spectrum LED bar
Length
About 22.5 in (570 mm)
Use
Daylight and plant growth alongside UVB

Best for

Planted screen cages where the UVB tube alone leaves the lower leaves dim.

Worth knowing

It adds light, not UVB. It never replaces the T5 UVB tube, and it should run on the same 12-hour timer.

10. Supplements

What to look for:

  • Calcium without D3 for routine dusting. LIBEVC recommends it daily for juveniles and every other day for adults.
  • A multivitamin. LIBEVC asks for one with preformed vitamin A once a week. ReptiFiles uses Arcadia EarthPro-A.
  • A D3 product, used sparingly. ReptiFiles adds one twice a month.

Schedules differ a lot between sources. Agree one plan with your vet and do not stack products.

Calcium

Zoo Med Repti Calcium without D3

A fine calcium carbonate powder with no vitamin D3, for dusting insects. The Long Island Bird and Exotics vet clinic recommends calcium carbonate without D3 as the routine dusting for veiled chameleons.

Calcium source
Calcium carbonate
Vitamin D3
None
Size
8 oz (US listing); 85 g (UK listing)

Best for

Routine dusting for a chameleon under good UVB, which makes its own vitamin D3.

Worth knowing

Sources give different schedules, so agree one with your vet. A light coat is enough.

Multivitamin

Arcadia EarthPro-A Multivitamin, 100 g

A multivitamin and mineral powder from Arcadia. ReptiFiles names EarthPro-A as the multivitamin to dust on veiled chameleon feeders.

Type
Multivitamin and mineral powder
Size
100 g

Best for

The vitamin part of the dusting plan, used on the schedule your vet agrees.

Worth knowing

Vitamins can be overdosed. Do not stack several multivitamins, and check the plan with a reptile vet.

More on schedules: Diet and hydration.

11. For females: a laying container

Female veiled chameleons can lay eggs without ever meeting a male. Reptiles Magazine suggests a 5 gallon bucket with about 8 inches (20 cm) of a damp sand and peat mix. Any deep, sturdy container you already have works; you do not need to buy a special product. See common mistakes for why this matters.

Useful extras

None of these is essential on day one, but each one makes daily care easier.

  • A plug-in timer for the UVB, daylight and basking lamps. LIBEVC and ReptiFiles both give 12 hours of light, and a timer keeps that steady even when you are away.
  • A cool-mist fogger for night humidity. LIBEVC and ReptiFiles describe one running from the early hours until sunrise. Use distilled water only, as both sources advise, and clean it often.
  • Distilled water for the mister and fogger, which also keeps mineral spots off the leaves and glass.
  • A feeding cup clipped to a branch. Insects stay in one place, and you can see how much your chameleon ate.
  • Spare bulbs and a spare UVB tube. UVB fades with age and basking bulbs fail without warning, so a spare means no gap while you wait for delivery.

Where to spend and where to save

If the budget is tight, this order protects the chameleon:

  1. Spend on UVB. A good T5 tube at the right height is the main defense against bone disease.
  2. Spend on the thermostat. It is what stops the basking branch overheating.
  3. Spend on height. Buying the adult size once is cheaper than a small cage and then an upgrade.
  4. Spend on reliable water, whether that is an automatic system or a sprayer you will really use twice a day.
  5. Save on plants. Ordinary pothos and umbrella plants from a garden center work well.
  6. Save on decor. Clean branches and vines do the job of expensive ornaments.

Skip these

  • Glass tanks with a small screen lid. LIBEVC advises against fully enclosed glass; airflow matters.
  • Water bowls as the only water. Chameleons do not drink from bowls (PetMD).
  • Coil or compact UVB bulbs. Use a linear T5 tube.
  • Colored or red “night” bulbs. Lights off at night. If your home gets too cold, use a heater that gives no light, on a thermostat.
  • Heat rocks or any heat without a thermostat. PetMD says not to use hot rocks.
  • Loose bedding. VCA warns against particle bedding a chameleon could swallow, and the RVC says never use wood chips.
  • Silk plants as the only cover. They do not hold water.
  • A second chameleon “for company”. One per enclosure.

The short shopping list

PriorityItem
1Screen or hybrid enclosure, 24 x 24 x 48 in (60 x 60 x 120 cm) or larger
2T5 HO 5% or 6% UVB kit, about 22 in
3Two 50W basking bulbs, a dual dome, a dimming thermostat
4Misting system or pressure sprayer, plus a dripper
5Drainage tray or bucket
6Live plants and branches
7Temperature gun, thermometer and hygrometer
8Calcium and multivitamin
OptionalUV index meter, daylight LED, night fogger

Ready to build it? Follow the setup checklist, then check the numbers on the lighting and heating page.


Spend on height, UVB, a thermostat and misting. A chameleon can thrive with plain branches and a pothos from the garden center; it cannot thrive without water it can see falling.

Sources

  1. Long Island Bird and Exotics Veterinary Clinic, Veiled Chameleon Care Tips: Everything You Need To Know About Your Pet Chameleon
  2. ReptiFiles, Veiled Chameleon Care Sheet
  3. PetMD (Maria Zayas, DVM), Veiled Chameleon Care Sheet
  4. Royal Veterinary College (RVC Exotics Service), Veiled Chameleon Care (owner factsheet, PDF)
  5. VCA Canada Animal Hospitals, Care and Housing for Chameleons
  6. The Reptile Centre, Which Ferguson Zone is My Reptile In? Your Complete Guide
  7. Reptiles Magazine, Veiled Chameleon Care Sheet

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